This cozy udon dish falls somewhere between creamy carbonara and silky buttered pasta. Anchovies and reserved anchovy oil infuse a simple butter sauce with umami — the coveted “fifth taste.” White miso and nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano round out the savory notes with a hint of sweetness. The sauce comes together when the noodles’ starchy cooking water is used to temper egg yolks, creating a lush, creamy sauce that coats the bouncy, chewy udon. The entire dish comes together in just 20 minutes, making it ideal for a busy weeknight dinner or late-night snack after a night out.
Why are frozen udon noodles better for this recipe?
Frozen udon noodles cook faster than fresh udon and have a chewier, bouncier texture after cooking than fresh noodles. Fresh udon tends to be softer and can be more prone to sticking together after cooking. Frozen udon also has a longer shelf life and can last two to three months.
What does it mean to temper eggs?
Tempering eggs is a cooking technique, often used when making pastry cream or custards, where cold or room-temperature whole eggs or egg yolks are gradually combined with a hot liquid without curdling or scrambling them. The goal is to gently warm the egg proteins and stabilize them. In this recipe, the egg yolks are tempered with the hot reserved cooking liquid from the noodles to create a smooth, creamy sauce.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
The udon noodles are garnished with shichimi togarashi, a traditional and popular Japanese spice blend that translates to “seven-spice mixture.” Most shichimi togarashi blends include yuzu, ginger, red chiles, sansho pepper, and seaweed, along with other spices. You can find it online or at most Asian or Japanese grocery stores.
Suggested pairing
Pair this bowl of comfort with a savory, minerally Pinot Noir, like Bodega Chacra Barda.
“The airy structure, refreshing minerality, and savory umami in Bodega Chacra Barda provides a nice contrast to cut through the udon’s rich butter sauce. Its bright acidity enhances the miso base, its light body complements the anchovies, and the stunning red-fruit character is enhanced by the chile finish.” —Luis Martinez, Ogawa, Miami
