A new arrival came to shake the waters of Paros’s catering and gastronomic reality. Giannis Loukakis Well -known chef from Thessaloniki, pioneer from the previous decade with “Dregs”, later with the ‘Call (+Food)’and from the recent venture of ‘Edges’in Pagrati, he worked this year with the Parisian businessman George Kavali and created the ‘Flame stream’in the settlement of Parikia. An effort that will give no other orientations from the dominant trends on the island.
But before we talk about the venture, as we had the pleasure of visiting the restaurant, trying out its flavors and learning about the philosophy of his cooking and so many other interests we discussed with his contributors, let’s make a journey in the past, to get to know the story of gastronomic revolution It took place about 15 years ago in Thessaloniki. It’s been 10-15 years since some anti-authoritarian ideas in Thessaloniki occupied the “power” of gastronomy, creating their own gastronomic school. Collectives, or collaborations with a collaborative spirit, far from professionals in the field, changed the image of the catering space by creating as chefs-patrons, Their shops. Parasical atmosphere, flavor innovation, flavors with local wines, artistic bistro, new age gastroes and mainly dishes value for money.
The main report of all the shops we visited then – Sebrico, Radical, Nama – it was o Giannis Loukakis, o Owner of the famous New Nest, From where it all started and everyone! Then Yiannis Loukakis in 2015 creates the Dregs, and 2020 with his partner Elias Barbounakis Block (+food). We note all this to point out that this revolution of these new chef-patron has prevented the innovations of degradations, foams and pellets to be introduced to Thessaloniki, which so squeezed modern Greek creative cuisine, and to highlight proposals where they dominate. good raw materials and the inventive marriage of flavors and ingredients.
Over the years, the pellerizations and degradations of the dishes were replaced by fish and ripening meats, new cuts, and raw eating, meats and fish (tartar, seviches, carpaccio). Opposite the new fashions, Yiannis Loukakis and his associates, as we realized it and rejoiced by visiting the ‘Flame stream’ in Paros, firm in their values, They respond with the quality and identity of the materials, with a simple cooking, which highlights 2-3 the most main food. In our dishes it was deposited the Greek cuisine Without unnecessary softening, clean food, with tasty clarity, regardless of the individual bold originality.
THE George Kavalis, 35 years old, time had in mind to build a separate catering shop in Paros, and on his face Giannis Loukakis and his team, he found the right partner!
“I was fascinated by the authorities of John, for pure flavors, excellent raw materials, transparency and honesty in the preparation of food. As many foods we use They are from suppliers with whom we have stable trust relationships. Our cheeses and milk from Parian Katerina Moschou, our meats from Lary Clovatos from Kinidaros of Naxos, the fava from Schinoussa by Antonis Kovaios, fish from fishermen of the east coast of Paros. Most of our wines are Parian, complemented by some other Cycladic labels. ”
“Our restaurant Stream It was so named because the homonymous torrent passes in front of it, but also because we finally use only wood fire to cook most of our foods. We have no electrical cooking appliances or throttle. In addition, as you can see, our kitchen is open, prominent and anyone can watch the chef’s work while baking in the oven or set up their dishes. “
“All production organization, staff, raw materials, recipes, and mode of production are designed by Giannis Loukakis, operating as a general advisor. My partners in the company is the Alexandros Barbounakis, Partner of Yiannis Loukakis and the chef Yiannis Stylian. ”
The menu is relatively limited, it fits into a page, characteristic of the chefs that chefs give to quality rather than quantity, but also indicating the view that the fewer dishes on the menu indicate the emphasis on quality, on Proper management with zero waste (zero waste).
By the appetizer We distinguished them:
An exquisite preventive bread with olive oil and salt bloom (there are a few who claim that perhaps a good criterion for the score of a restaurant is the attention they show on their blanket bread),
The sweet and velvety fava from Schinoussa, with oil (pie, chalk recipe), capers and olives, is one of the strongest dishes,
The first dishes still stand out, the white tarama with chickens,
bread from wood oven, with antizules and tomato on the grater,
Salt of Zemistis, Paste of Baked Tomato, Naxos Xinotiri,
carotes in the wood oven, pesto from their leaves, tulumotiri, peanut of Aegina,
Handmade pie (another wonderful dough preparation in the wood oven), from beef minced meat, smoke -eggplants, onion and yogurt,
Grails on charcoal, fried eggs, soft Paros cheese,
For the Merry, there is the boujourdi with shrimp and tomatoes in the wood -fired oven, with a romantic and sweet and sweetheart that only one Thessaloniki could make!
And here we come to the top dish of the restaurant!
“Pasta, goat crab, Naxos male, prevented bread powder”.
THE crab Traditionally in the Cyclades it is mainly made of pork that is cooked with herbs and little spices (unlike Macedonia and Thrace where the spices are intense) and is then kept in its fat. When you want to use it, you take a spoonful of it, warm it up and then pour eggs in the pan and make an exquisite fragrant omelette.
In our case, Yiannis Loukakis’ crab is made of gots started kidnapped and cooked and condensed with a few discreet herbs, and then sliced and baked in the wood oven. The contrast of the tender and soft goat meat, with its crisp outer crust, creates a unique tasty beauty result.
Having just returned from a trip to Chios, Amorgos and Samothraki – Issia that is the kingdom of kids – and having tried dozens of goat’s meat versions, I think the goat from the Brigady of the restaurant “Flame” is one of top recipes I have tried in my life. I bow deeply.
The smoked rooster with potato in the pan, reddish sauce and male Naxos, the next signature plate from the “Flame stream” I only photographed it, but from my wife’s expressions and commentary, I think it would be of high quality too. I reserve for the next time.
For his desserts and ice creams Spyrou Pediditakis, Giannis Loukakis Kobarou and Fellowship, best Pastry chef In 2019, at the FNL Best Restaurant Awards, whatever you say is a bit. Here the flavors of the flavors is Europeanized. You just don’t have to try them all the first time, you have to be trained to choose the best.
Milk pie with strawberries in the cast,
Tart with burnt lemons, ice cream with lemon oil, white chocolate crumble, yogurt cream,
Black chocolate cream, salt blossom, hazelnut praline, ice cream made of fresh organic milk, caramelized hazelnuts,
Honey cake with orange and lemon, mascarpone, yogurt cream, fresh cherries.
Your with cream of Aegina peanuts.
Our experience in “Flame stream” He had to end at some point. Leaving fed up with unique flavors, we felt more that we were lucky enough to attend a Experimental Taste Laboratory, Where the local raw materials, under the guidance of the worthy chefs and the creative work of the store’s brigade, were converted into inventive and innovative dishes with a strong stamp of Greekness, seen by an oblique look.
“Flame stream” is located opposite the Dimitris Kavali family hotel Galina Hotel In the heart of the old city of Parikia, and in the morning hours serves Greek breakfastwhich includes the exquisite desserts of the restaurant.