These days, there’s no dearth of restaurants, and most of them not only look and feel the same, but their menus are so interchangeable that you could swap one with another and few would notice. Matram, a new entrant in regional Indian cuisine, stands apart. From its traditional aesthetic to a menu that genuinely travels from Kashmir to Kanyakumari it is refreshingly different.
Located on an independent plot next to a mall, the impressive frontage with stone elephants and water fountains makes you pause and take notice. Step inside, and the interiors charm you instantly. Intricate detailing on the walls and ceilings, and a bright blue ceiling mimicking a clear sky on one side, give the space an uplifting energy and a pleasant, open feel.
It was their first lunch service (they had only started with dinner the night before) so it’s understandable that the staff needs time to become more fluent with the menu and to stock the refrigerators with adequate soft drinks. But those are minor glitches. What matters is that Matram makes a sincere and enthusiastic attempt to woo the discerning diner.
We began with crisp nadru (lotus root) fritters served with a trio of dips: bhaang chutney, pineapple chutney, and green apple chutney. A welcome change from the usual mint chutney. But what had my full attention was the tender coconut chilly fry, a standout dish made with the flesh of tender coconut cooked in its own water, finished in a spicy sauce. It’s healthy, addictive, and unlike anything I’ve had elsewhere. Chef Suresh Singh Fartyal, originally from the northern hills, proudly shared that he has launched restaurants across almost every Indian state, and this particular dish is his own invention. I admire the spirit of innovation.
Then came a medley of dishes, including the dohra kebab, a seekh that layers chicken at the base and mutton on top. It’s not commonly found, though I felt it could benefit from a bit more seasoning. The grilled tiger prawns, flambéed with rum on the table stole the show. Perfectly marinated, beautifully cooked, and packed with flavour.
I won’t go into detail about the other starters we tried like mutton pepper fry, Tangra chicken, ghee roast chicken, gunpowder podi idli etc which were all decent enough to hold their own in most restaurants, but somewhat overshadowed by Matram’s signature creations.
From the mains, my favourites were the Bengali kosha mangsho and the Kashmiri morels pulao. Both were so flavourful that while others asked for raita, I preferred to savour them as they were.
Dessert was a mixed bag. The black rice kheer from the Northeast was best ignored (I’ve had far better), but the gulab jamun cheesecake was delicious. The team also went out of their way to serve us green tea on request, which was a thoughtful touch.
Matram is a much-needed addition to the NCR dining scene. I only hope that its Dwarka location doesn’t become a limitation to the success it richly deserves.
Matram, Reliance Mall, Plot No 1, adjacent to Mayfair Restro Bar, Sector 13, Dwarka, New Delhi, Delhi, 110078