Spicy Tuna Salad

When I think of seafood, I remember a glorious 15-day vacation I took to the Riviera Maya, a stunning stretch of coastline on the Caribbean side of Mexico where I had some of the best fish I’ve ever eaten. While the resort I stayed at offered luxurious preparations of citrusy ceviche and fresh sashimi, it was a meal I had at a humble beachside bar that has really stuck with me in the years since: tuna salad.

One bite of the creamy, veggie-packed tuna, and I was instantly reminded of the ensalada de pollo (Mexican-style chicken salad) I grew up eating. I was used to peas, carrots and potatoes in my chicken salad—but when it came to tuna salad, my parents made it the way they had learned while working at a Jewish deli called Zucky’s, a Santa Monica, California, landmark that closed in the early ’90s. That version featured finely chopped onions and celery and sweet and sour pickle relish, so I had never thought of making tuna salad any other way until that day on the beach. After I scooped into the spicy, corn-studded salad, I knew I needed to re-create it. 

I later discovered that the tuna salad I had in Playa del Carmen was actually a pretty common recipe found throughout many parts of Mexico. The first time I re-created it at home, I missed the peas and carrots in my mom’s chicken version, so I decided to skip the corn, but keep the spicy elements, and thus, my version of tuna salad was born. I’ve been making it my way ever since, and the dish is a staple during the warm months of the year when I dare not turn on the oven. It’s become a favorite dish that I often turn to when I’m invited to a summer potluck and I’m not sure what to bring or don’t have a big budget (it’s easy on the wallet and can feed quite a few people when served as an appetizer). 

My recipe starts with oil-packed tuna, as I find it makes for a tastier salad than water-packed. I skip draining the oil, instead using it to flavor the salad and add moisture, which also means I can use less mayonnaise. Then, I mash it gently with a fork to break up any giant chunks. Here’s where things get a bit different from the classic tuna salads you’ll find in delicatessens across the United States. Instead of onion and celery, my spicy tuna salad has peas and carrots. And I must note that while I do use frozen peas, boiling fresh carrots is worth the extra effort since they have a better taste and texture. 

The other, perhaps surprising, ingredients are cilantro and raw hot chile peppers, either serrano or jalapeño, depending on what I have on hand and how spicy I want the salad to be. Lemon juice adds a bright note that cuts through the richness of the mayo and any overpowering fishy taste or smell. The combination may be different than anything you’ve tried before, but it’s truly delicious and refreshing on a warm day.

My beachside tuna salad came with a side of fried yucca—a Latin staple, especially in tropical regions, that tastes similar to potato—but I usually pair it with saltine crackers, pile it high on crispy tostadas the way my mom always did with her chicken salad, or sometimes serve it simply on a bed of cold, crunchy lettuce. No matter what you pair my tuna salad recipe with, you might also find it becoming a favorite in your home.