The Best Way to Cook Salmon

Salmon has an almost magical ability to develop a crispy exterior like the skin on a well-rendered chicken thigh, yet stay juicy and almost buttery like lobster. It all has to do with the skin, protein structure, and fat content, which when prepared properly, transforms into a lusciously delicate yet meaty texture with a sweet, slightly salty flavor. Yes, poached, smoked, and cured salmon definitely have their place, but for my money, not much beats the crispy skin and tender flesh you get from dry heat.

With that in mind the test kitchen was tasked with figuring out the best way to cook salmon. Terters tried six different methods: grilling, cooking in an airfryer, pan-searing, starting in a cold pan, broiling, and baking. The goal was to deliver salmon with a balance of crispy skin and moist, tender flesh. The results actually changed the way I think about cooking salmon and it’s fair to say you may also have a new favorite method.

A Word About Our Method

Before sharing the findings, it’s important to note that all cooking methods were tested with uniform sized salmon fillets. We sourced 1-inch, center-cut salmon fillets from Whole Foods and Son of a Butcher. The fillets were simply seasoned with 1/2 teaspoon each of kosher salt and pepper and cooked in 1 teaspoon of olive oil. The salmon were all prepared to an internal temperature of 125°F and the goal was consistent doneness, crispy skin where possible, and juicy flesh throughout.

Air-frying

Cook Time: 8 minutes
Total Time: 25 minutes
Rating: 6/10

Method: An air-fryer has one major advantage over just about all other methods: it’s hands-off and fast. But, like most things cooked in an air fryer, the disadvantage is heat control. Start by preheating an air fryer to 350°F. Place fillets skin-side up in the basket, leaving some space between each fillet, and cook until crispy and cooked through, 7–8 minutes. Rest the salmon on a plate for 5 minutes before serving.

Results: The air fryer was convenient, but testers found the skin less impressive than other methods. In addition, salmon cooked in the air fryer was prone to drying out. For this reason, testers found using an air fryer to cook salmon was the worst method. It works best for thick cuts where moisture retention is easier.

Pros: The air fryer was one of the quickest methods, with fully cooked salmon ready in about 7 minutes. One tester commented that the air fryer was great for convenience and could often produce relatively crispy skin. And once the salmon is in the air fryer, the rest of the cooking is hands-off.

Cons: Compared to other methods, this air-frying didn’t produce particularly crispy skin. The biggest problem, however, was the salmon was prone to overcooking quickly.

Baked in the Oven

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
Rating: 7/10

Method: Another hands-off approach, baking salmon in the oven is a classic method with varying results. Start by preheating the oven to 400°F with a cast-iron skillet inside. Drizzle oil in the preheated skillet then add the salmon, skin-side down, and bake until mostly opaque around the sides and the skin is golden and crispy, 8 minutes. Carefully flip, remove from heat, and let rest until a thermometer inserted into the thickest portion registers 125°F, another 2-3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and serve immediately.

Results: Baking produced moist, gently cooked flesh, though the skin wasn’t as evenly crisp compared to other methods. This is another hands-off method that produced decent results, but the lack of crispy skin kept it from scoring higher. A good choice for hands-off cooking, but not the top pick if crispy skin is your goal.

Pros: This is a solid method if you want tender and juicy salmon. Carryover heat in the cast-iron skillet gently finishes cooking the fish, reducing the likelihood of overcooking. It’s also mostly hands-free cooking.

Cons: The biggest problem with this method was the skin. Without direct contact to the heat source, the cast iron skillet in the oven didn’t produce evenly crispy and browned skin.

Broiled

Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes
Rating: 7/10

Method: This method starts by placing a rack about 8-inches from the heat source. Set the broiler to high then rub the salmon with oil. Season then place skin-side up on a large rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Broil until the skin is crispy and the internal temperature reaches 125°F, 5 to 6 minutes. Rest at room temperature on a plate for 5 minutes before serving.

Results: This is the turning point in the list where the method starts to deliver better skin. LIke the air fryer method, broiling cooks the salmon quickly. But the advantage here is all about that crispy, golden brown skin. Though, importantly, other methods develop better quality skin. Still, broiling is especially ideal when you need to cook salmon quickly. Broiling also requires a bit more monitoring compared to other methods.

Pros: This was one of the fastest ways to cook salmon with decently crispy skin. If you have last minute dinner guests and need to cook salmon quickly, the broiler is a great option.

Cons: The biggest disadvantage here is uneven cooking. Broilers are notorious for having hot and cold spots, so achieving an evenly-browned, perfectly juicy fillet of salmon required careful monitoring.

Grilling

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
Rating: 8/10

Method: Not everyone has access to a grill, but if you do, it can produce good results when cooking salmon. Start by preheating the grill to medium, 350°F–400°F. Be sure to clean and oil the grates well. Rub the salmon with oil and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Place on the grates, skin-side down, and cook, covered and undisturbed, until the skin is crispy and lightly charred in spots, 5 to 6 minutes. Use a fish spatula to carefully flip and continue to cook, covered, until the internal temperature reaches 125°F, another 2-3 minutes. Rest at room temperature on a plate for 5 minutes before serving.

Results: Grilling gave the salmon a smoky, lightly charred flavor with decently crisp skin. However, the high heat sometimes dried the edges, leaving them a bit chewy. This is a great method if you want to develop a pleasantly toasty, slightly smoky flavor. Best for outdoor cooking when flavor is as important as texture.

Pros: Grilling salmon helps develop a smoky flavor and a light char. Grill marks also make for a nice presentation. The high heat develops a nicely crisp skin.

Cons: Heat control is the biggest challenge as salmon is prone to overcooking. The edges of the salmon could overcook and become a bit chewy.

Pan-Seared

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes
Rating: 9/10

Method: Pan-searing has been my go-to method for crispy skin salmon since culinary school. It’s a classic method for a reason: the skin develops a nice crispy bite and it’s relatively easy to land a perfect medium internal temperature. This method starts by heating oil in a large stainless-steel skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Place salmon skin-side down and cook until the skin is golden and sides are mostly opaque, about 5 minutes. Gently press down with a fish spatula to help flatten the skin and prevent it shriveling up. Carefully flip and remove skillet from heat; let salmon rest until the internal temperature reaches 125°F, another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately.

Results: This was our runner-up method as pan-searing produced beautiful, ultra-crispy skin. One tester noted that “by flipping and using carryover heat, the inside stays juicy while the edges firm up slightly.” This is a solid, restaurant-style method.

Pros: Pan-searing creates very crispy skin. It’s a classic technique that’s relatively easy to learn and execute. Similar to other methods, the cook time is fairly quick.

Cons: It is hard to beat this classic method, though it does require monitoring and there is a chance of uneven heating.

Starting in a Cold Pan

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes
Rating: 10/10

Method: The winner of the test kitchen’s best method for cooking salmon actually starts without any heat. The trick here is starting in a cold nonstick skillet and gently rendering the fat to produce a deeply crispy skin. Simply drizzle oil in a large nonstick skillet and add the salmon, skin side down, gently moving it in the oil for even distribution. Then place the skillet over medium-high heat and cook, undisturbed, until the skin is golden brown and crispy and the flesh is mostly opaque around the edges, 7 to 8 minutes. Carefully flip and remove the skillet from the heat, letting carry over heat finish cooking the salmon until it reaches 125°F, 2 to 3 more minutes. Transfer to a plate and serve immediately.

Results: This method was a big hit. By starting in a cold pan, the salmon’s skin is rendered slowly and evenly, creating deeply crisp, golden skin while keeping the flesh moist and tender. Testers agreed this was the most foolproof, consistent way to cook salmon.

Pros: You can achieve ultra-crispy skin with very little effort. It also makes for evenly cooked flesh and produces reliable results. You don’t need to pay too much attention as the pan does just about all of the work.

Cons: You can’t really walk away from this method and it requires a bit more hands-on time than other techniques.

Final Takeaways

While all methods produced delicious salmon, it’s clear cooking in a skillet is the best technique. However, starting salmon in a cold skillet actually produced better skin and more consistent tender flesh compared to simply pan-frying. It’s a reliable and easy method that also happens to be the test kitchen’s favorite.